surf odyssey the culture of wave riding

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Surf Odyssey

Author : Andrew Groves
ISBN : 3899556534
Genre : Surfers
File Size : 54. 81 MB
Format : PDF, Kindle
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"Cold-water surfing, the most remote surf spots, spectacular photography, illustrations, and custom boards: Surf Odyssey documents the modern cult of surfing as its own subculture and way of life. There's much more to surfing than palm trees and beach boy clichés. People surf not only in Hawaii, but also in Norway, South Korea, and India. Surf Odyssey is a book about the world of surfing today and those that live in it. This community is made up of the surfers themselves as well as surf photographers and board builders who are also spreading its distinctive spirit into other creative fields. Comparable to the new outdoor movement, today's surfing is about an attitude toward life, a lust for adventure, and a love of nature that one can only find far away from established spots. Surf Odyssey presents this scene's places, people, stories, and brands. Its stunning photography is sure to inspire many further surfing exploits."

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
ISBN : 9780698163744
Genre : Biography & Autobiography
File Size : 23. 1 MB
Format : PDF, ePub
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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** *Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List* A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.

High Tide

Author : Chris Burkard
ISBN : 9089896546
Genre :
File Size : 78. 87 MB
Format : PDF, ePub
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The ultimate photography book on surfing by one of the most famous outdoor photographers in the worldDistinctive photographyThe author has a huge following: 600,000 followers on Instagram (chrisburkard), the perfect gift for surfers, outdoor sportsmen, lovers of photographyThis is the ultimate book on rough and tough surfing. Breathtaking landscapes, remote and desolate places, the highest waves, the most spectacular jumps and a story of surfing to the ends of the world. A photographic homage to surfing in extreme conditions, made by an international surfer and his team. High Tide, A Surd Odyssey follows the surfers in their epic journeys and achievements in the most diverse land- and seascapes. This book portrays the ultimate battle between the elements and mankind: the water and the waves against the board and man.Of related interest: Surf ISBN 9789089896544 - $15.95

Surf Shack

Author : Nina Freudenberger
ISBN : 9780451496065
Genre : Design
File Size : 68. 50 MB
Format : PDF, Docs
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For those who combed through Cabin Porn for inspiration and The New Bohemians for authenticity, here are bungalows, trailers, cabins, and beach homes where surfers retreat after a day on the waves. Peek inside the homes of longtime enthusiasts and dedicated newcomers that reflect not just a sport or passion, but also a way of life. Blake and Heather Mycoskie of TOMS, hotelier Sean MacPherson, Gypset author Julia Chaplin, and others have set up their spaces to embrace a casual ease and be the break between the waves. With vibrant photographs of design details and bright beaches—from Malibu to the Rockaways, from Japan to Australia—this book captures the soulful milieu of a lifestyle we all aspire to. "Surfers are a breed onto themselves and their homes . . . Nina Freudenberger has taken a good look at not only a number of these vastly different abodes but also a quick glimpse into the particular and even peculiar lives that are lived there. Because after all, to a surfer at least, surfing is the only life." –Gerry Lopez, renowned surfer, innovator, and author of Surf is Where You Find It

The Godfather Notebook

Author : Francis Ford Coppola
ISBN : 9781942872313
Genre : Performing Arts
File Size : 20. 8 MB
Format : PDF, Mobi
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THE PUBLISHING SENSATION OF THE YEAR FOR EVERY FILM FAN The never-before-published edition of Francis Ford Coppola’s notes and annotations on The Godfather novel by Mario Puzo reveals the story behind one of the world’s most iconic films. The most important unpublished work on one of the greatest films of all time, The Godfather, written before filming, by the man who wrote and directed it—Francis Ford Coppola, then only thirty-two years old—reveals the intense creative process that went into making this seminal film. With his meticulous notes and impressions of Mario Puzo’s novel, the notebook was referred to by Coppola daily on set while he directed the movie. The Godfather Notebook pulls back the curtain on the legendary filmmaker and the film that launched his illustrious career. Complete with an introduction by Francis Ford Coppola and exclusive photographs from on and off the set, this is a unique, beautiful, and faithful reproduction of Coppola’s original notebook. This publication will change the way the world views the iconic film—and the process of filmmaking at large. A must-have book of the season. Nothing like it has ever been published before

John Severson S Surf

Author : John Severson
ISBN : 8862083262
Genre : Art
File Size : 53. 89 MB
Format : PDF, Kindle
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Southern California, 1960. John Severson founded SURFER, the first magazine to celebrate and revolutionize the art and sport of surfing. Surfing's most influential artist, John Severson (born in Los Angeles in 1933) has altered the perception, obsession and fascination of surfing in Pop culture. For over six decades, from surfing's seminal first painting Seal Beach Locals, to the riot and mise-en-scene of his pioneering films--Surf Safari, Surf Fever and Big Wednesday, through the creation of SURFER, Severson has shaped the image and iconography of surfing sending seismic vibrations into the soul of surf culture. John Severson's SURF is the first monograph and visual survey to explore his singular odyssey through ephemera, painting, photography, film, and publishing. This volume includes contributions by surf icons, the Hawaiian tube rider Gerry Lopez and the former editor of SURFER Drew Kampion. John Severson's SURF is a trip to the birth of surf culture and a testament to our Ocean.

Kook

Author : Peter Heller
ISBN : 9781439171813
Genre : Biography & Autobiography
File Size : 49. 61 MB
Format : PDF, ePub, Mobi
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Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

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