surf odyssey the culture of wave riding

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Surf Odyssey

Author : Andrew Groves
ISBN : 3899556534
Genre : Surfers
File Size : 22. 64 MB
Format : PDF, Kindle
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"Cold-water surfing, the most remote surf spots, spectacular photography, illustrations, and custom boards: Surf Odyssey documents the modern cult of surfing as its own subculture and way of life. There's much more to surfing than palm trees and beach boy clichés. People surf not only in Hawaii, but also in Norway, South Korea, and India. Surf Odyssey is a book about the world of surfing today and those that live in it. This community is made up of the surfers themselves as well as surf photographers and board builders who are also spreading its distinctive spirit into other creative fields. Comparable to the new outdoor movement, today's surfing is about an attitude toward life, a lust for adventure, and a love of nature that one can only find far away from established spots. Surf Odyssey presents this scene's places, people, stories, and brands. Its stunning photography is sure to inspire many further surfing exploits."

High Tide

Author : Chris Burkard
ISBN : 9089896546
Genre :
File Size : 85. 10 MB
Format : PDF, Docs
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The ultimate photography book on surfing by one of the most famous outdoor photographers in the worldDistinctive photographyThe author has a huge following: 600,000 followers on Instagram (chrisburkard), the perfect gift for surfers, outdoor sportsmen, lovers of photographyThis is the ultimate book on rough and tough surfing. Breathtaking landscapes, remote and desolate places, the highest waves, the most spectacular jumps and a story of surfing to the ends of the world. A photographic homage to surfing in extreme conditions, made by an international surfer and his team. High Tide, A Surd Odyssey follows the surfers in their epic journeys and achievements in the most diverse land- and seascapes. This book portrays the ultimate battle between the elements and mankind: the water and the waves against the board and man.Of related interest: Surf ISBN 9789089896544 - $15.95

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
ISBN : 9780698163744
Genre : Biography & Autobiography
File Size : 78. 45 MB
Format : PDF
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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** *Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List* A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.

John Severson S Surf

Author : John Severson
ISBN : 8862083262
Genre : Art
File Size : 81. 55 MB
Format : PDF, Mobi
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Southern California, 1960. John Severson founded SURFER, the first magazine to celebrate and revolutionize the art and sport of surfing. Surfing's most influential artist, John Severson (born in Los Angeles in 1933) has altered the perception, obsession and fascination of surfing in Pop culture. For over six decades, from surfing's seminal first painting Seal Beach Locals, to the riot and mise-en-scene of his pioneering films--Surf Safari, Surf Fever and Big Wednesday, through the creation of SURFER, Severson has shaped the image and iconography of surfing sending seismic vibrations into the soul of surf culture. John Severson's SURF is the first monograph and visual survey to explore his singular odyssey through ephemera, painting, photography, film, and publishing. This volume includes contributions by surf icons, the Hawaiian tube rider Gerry Lopez and the former editor of SURFER Drew Kampion. John Severson's SURF is a trip to the birth of surf culture and a testament to our Ocean.

Kook

Author : Peter Heller
ISBN : 9781439171813
Genre : Biography & Autobiography
File Size : 41. 54 MB
Format : PDF, Mobi
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Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Chasing Waves

Author : Amy Waeschle
ISBN : 1594853797
Genre : Sports & Recreation
File Size : 79. 85 MB
Format : PDF, Mobi
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* Sales benefit the Surfrider Foundation * First surfing adventure narrative by a woman With a fresh voice and surf-saturated daydreams, this author celebrates the joys of traveling to feed an addiction Amy Waeschle became a surf addict shortly after catching her first wave more than seven years ago. To her, surfing is more of a feeling than a sport, combining the mental quest for exploration with the physicality of riding a wave. Hunting down waves in remote corners of the world, from Morocco to Fiji to Canada, Waeschle has found unique and fascinating cultures that have changed her views and fostered her surfing mission. Chasing Waves is her collection of interrelated stories based on these adventures and a chronicle of her evolution from nervous newbie to self-confident and skillful surfer. Anyone who has ever longed for a daring diversion from day job and doldrums will connect with these tales of wanderlust, vagabonding, and riding the surf.

The Man Who Made Things Out Of Trees The Ash In Human Culture And History

Author : Robert Penn
ISBN : 9780393253740
Genre : Nature
File Size : 36. 57 MB
Format : PDF, ePub, Mobi
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The story of how one man cut down a single tree to see how many things could be made from it. Out of all the trees in the world, the ash is most closely bound up with who we are: the tree we have made the greatest and most varied use of over the course of human history. One frigid winter morning, Robert Penn lovingly selected an ash tree and cut it down. He wanted to see how many beautiful, handmade objects could be made from it. Thus begins an adventure of craftsmanship and discovery. Penn visits the shops of modern-day woodworkers—whose expertise has been handed down through generations—and finds that ancient woodworking techniques are far from dead. He introduces artisans who create a flawless axe handle, a rugged and true wagon wheel, a deadly bow and arrow, an Olympic-grade toboggan, and many other handmade objects using their knowledge of ash’s unique properties. Penn connects our daily lives back to the natural woodlands that once dominated our landscapes. Throughout his travels—from his home in Wales, across Europe, and America—Penn makes a case for the continued and better use of the ash tree as a sustainable resource and reveals some of the dire threats to our ash trees. The emerald ash borer, a voracious and destructive beetle, has killed tens of millions of ash trees across North America since 2002. Unless we are prepared to act now and better value our trees, Penn argues, the ash tree and its many magnificent contributions to mankind will become a thing of the past. This exuberant tale of nature, human ingenuity, and the pleasure of making things by hand chronicles how the urge to understand and appreciate trees still runs through us all like grain through wood.

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